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Ho, ho, ho, what a DAY of racing we've had! Unexpected victors in races around the globe, but none more stunning than the break kwabbing the sprinters at the ADAC CYCLASSICS HAMBURG race! And another SENSATIONAL .UWT race (2.1 does not apply) means another SENSATIONAL /WORLD TOUR WINE/ !!
We return to Germany for the second and final time of the year. Obviously there is no good wine country in Hamburg, so we are visiting the south of the country for some very interesting wein. While for Eschborn-Frankfurt we enjoyed a Riseling, today we are enjoying a SPATBURGUNDER. Spatburgunder is the German name for Pinot Noir, and Germany is actually the world's third largest producer of PN. Historically, Spatburgunder was a light, alpine wine that was difficult to ripen. As the climate in Germany warms, many people consider German Spatburgunder to the wein of the future, with the light, fruity, moderate character that Burgundy enjoyed for so many years.
Holger Koch Pinot Noir SF N * (2022)
This is a Pinot Noir from above Baden. I think producer lists it as PN rather than Spatburgunder (which he does for some other cuvees) because it is grown from Burgundian vinestock rather than German vinestock. He also has a hilariously complex classification system for his wines. First, there is quality of the grapes, which includes, Kaiserstuhl, Herrenstuck, *, ***, and Reserve. This is graded one-star. The "SF N" refers to natural, without sulfur. In addition to being unsulfured, this is actually made with 1/3rd carbonic maceration (a technique popularized by Beaujolais) which adds fruity, effusive quality to the wine. Probably used to beef up an otherwise austere wine.
Pours a classic PN pale ruby. Nose is a initially a bit wild with some brett that blows off, then bright red berries, light forest and mushroom, and mint. The nose is perfumed, but very open. The palate is fresh, lively, and fruity. Minimal tannins, fresh acidity.
It is a beautiful wine in that it is so transparent and fresh, but it lacks the depth to be considered great. Very good for the $.
Keep an eye out this week for a special treat from the /WTW/ offices!