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 >>/29310/
I'm here. I should have specified that I chiefly available in the evenings and a little in the early mornings.
This is a slow board, so whatever you post it's sure I'll read it.
So carving with a knife is called whittling. Real carving is done more with chisels and gauges than knives.
Where to begin? I saw it on Kohl, you started ambitiously with a figurine. You can learn a lot with that but I also see you actually carving since I see chisels there.
Whittling is a slow process and needs lots of patience. It's removing little material with little force. I think first I would try different cuts, shallow, deep, in different angles, on different materials, different type of woods. Would try to remove a lot with one cut, and a little with one.
Maybe I would make a proper stake/tent peg. That needs a few types of cuts, very simple and can be made from all kinds of woods. I dunno what's available to you. Try it on softer one, pines, hazels, then harder ones, ash, oak, fruit trees. And you will see all differs, and you will know what you want to practice on.
But your approach was ok, you'll learn if you whittle/carve, no matter what.
Buy some European lime, a small saw and a small wood planer. Then again just fucking carve stuff.

I carved two knife from ash using a Stanley blade.
 >>/29337/
There's a carving Spaniard? Didn't know. Bout 2015-16 on KC main a Russian dude posted a carving. He used a board and made a landscape with a house and curving road. Was pretty dope.
So then, get a stick, and make it pointy. Get another stick (a different wood) and make that pointy too.
When I was a kid in school we used pencils a lot and I always sharpened them with a knife. Was a good experience to see how the differing quality woods got whittled.
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Here's some tent pegs, freshly dl'd from the nets, will be good for template. With making such you can practice cutting perpendicularly to the grain and in an angle.
The grain runs more or less straight in the wood (up and down) but at certain places (like where's a know) it can warp. You'll see how the wood behaves differently.
You can leave a stake/peg round at first (if you make it from a stick), but trying to make it rectangular is also a good practice.
Don't whittle large portions, only little. As I said, it's removing little material with little force.

Also get iodine, sterile gauze and adhesive for your wounds as you'll cut yourself a lot in the future.

 >>/29335/
I like those, I yet to try ash, looks nice material.
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I post this here too. It has explanations, angles, measurements.
Try stick is good, because one will use the same cuts when whittling something more complex, like a figurine.
 >>/29379/
Breddy gud, make it pointy.
Then we'll kill vampires.
And then, if you make two V notch instead of the 90 degree and make the point of the stick more elongated then you'll get something like this:  >>/29335/
 >>/29382/
Can be done.
But drilling holes with knives aren't that easy.
Peeps sometimes split a stick, carve channel for the air going then glue the stuff together, or tie it tight.
 >>/29379/
Looks very good
Are you going to sand it? If so, sand it in stages and wet the thing between stages.

 >>/29340/
Ash is very hard, I got a bruised palm whittling those but the wood is lovely, very pale and not too heavy. Its also slightly flexible. Ash die back is causing lots of problems here so I keep finding felled trees with untouched branches. Soon Ash will be a rare wood.
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#1 - All this talk about whittling set my mood, so today I'm gonna maek sumtin. Wasn't sure what exactly, a round stick just screams for a chess piece.
#2 - Debark the stick.
#3 - That knot will be a broblem.
#4 - That bend too. That will limit the size.
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#5 - A ring where it can be sawed when it's ready. There will be the base.
#6 - Shaping the base, kinda round. It will be much more slim and slender, but I leave about this size for now so I won't break the thing down accidentally.
#7 - A couple of minutes after I decided this will be a horsie. A knight that is. I want one on the end of the try stick too. This will be the trial run.
#8 - At this point as I smeared some blood on the piece I realized I nicked the tip of my thumb. I had the choice to stop or continue with holding the stick awkwardly as I try not to bloody it more but this would hinder the process, and become a source of mistakes and maybe further wounds. No thanks.

Dunno when I will finish this, won't take long, one more session. However I found at least one designing flaws I made. But maybe it will be all right, just have to make the figurine smaller.
 >>/29415/
> file
No.
But will cut as much details with the knife as I can. It's just I have to take a couple of days until my thumb heals enough. And even then, when I have the time, maybe next weekend. Or maybe I can steal a couple of minutes here and there, hazel is very easy to carve, it's a relatively quick job.
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It's getting look like a horse. But it got smaller and gonna gave problems with the details. The two most notable is the ears and eyes.
What really fucked me over is the center of the stick, it was just too soft and crumbly. It's not a coincidence that for real pieces they don't use sticks.

Also was in the woods today. Very nice weather, tho wasn't any exciting to photo. Maybe mushrooms, there were quite a few but many collector ranging around.
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Now here's another project I might never finish. I have this Y branch from a poplar, dried maybe a year, I split it into halves. I want to make a stool and a table out of them, both three legged.
Needs to be flattened, planed, and I have some branches to fit into them as legs. Not sure about the holes for those, square probably and gonna use chisel, I don't have wide enough drill bits to make round holes, but maybe buy one, they ain't expensive. Also this pieces of log needs some sawing on their ends, they kinda started to rot sadly.
I forgot to place something beside them for size reference, their length about 55 cms.
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I had this hazel sapling I cut some time ago, it was 37 and over 50 mm in diameter at its thinnest and thickest ends, and was well over 2 meters long. I decided to use it for legs, cut up into three each is over 750 mms, which means it will be kinda low table, but I just want to use it as a flat-ish surface when it's needed, and a place I can put my tools when I do stuff in the garden. Maybe I can get some more hazel in the same size, but they need a year at least to dry.
Btw flat-ish surface, did some cleaning up on the Y log, sawed off the ends to make it clean, and roughly smoothed the surface. I thought I give it legs first then I'm gonna pane it a little.
I don't want the legs to be horizontal, but inclined a little. With the "I" part of the "Y" it's simple, but at the branches they have to be inclined in two directions.
I also plan to add cross "beams" between the legs to reinforce the whole structure.
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Ok. Here's the last two. A storm and power outage prevented me to post.
So I made a flat place in an angle for drilling. I know I have to reprofile the chisel. It's sharp tho.
I haven't had a drill bit to drill wide enough holes so bought a 40 and a 35 mm flat drill bits. They were cheap but at least bad. Maybe the material isn't that bad, but they are kinda dull. Also they had a black coating to mask the fact that they are scratched all over. Couldn't fool me, I took a look. At first I judged the edge good enough (for government work) and got on with the drilling. Maybe with an electric drill it would have been enough, but I chose to do it with a hand cranked one. We call those Amerikáner, maybe I should look up the etymology for the other thread. Anyway it was pain to make even this shallow hole I have to sharpen the bits for sure. And I noticed the backside flat of the cutting edges are also scratched, so I have to make them nice and flat too.
Anyway this is what I have now. I'm gonna have problems with the thinner branch, the hole can't go too deep or I'll pierce the upper surface of the log.
Shieeet. After a bunch of work, the drill bits are starting to get usable but not good enough and I suspect with a hand-cranked drill they won't be the best tool for the job. I doubt I can fix the log stable enough to use electric drill, but maybe I have to try that in the end. For now my plan is that I cut a little with the hand-cranked, then chisel away the splinters causing the drill to stuck. But all these I have to leave for the next weekend. This sucks, but since I'm basically learning this, no biggie.
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Drilled that hole and fit that leg. Haven't made photo, maybe tomorrow.
Actually I'm par lying, partially had to chisel it out. Some lessons are getting digested right now.

No photo but here's a drawing. The leg fits bit more loose then was intended because as I cranked the drill, it moved left and right widening cavity. The end of the leg also isn't perfect round shaped so by default it had a direction where it was thinner. Above all this I had to debark it further slimming it. But its unevenness has its advantages because it also makes it stuck at places.
It does not fall off, despite it went in kinda easily. Beside those unevenness I suspect forces in the play too. It isn't shoved in vertically but the whole thing is in an angle, which means as the gravity pulls it straight down at the edge of the hole and at the top of the leg it gets pressed to the wall of the hole, keeping it secure in place.
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Fixed another leg. Couple of weeks and it will be ready in no time.
It was easier to carve the hole than drill it. It has a tiny bit of a problem, it moves a bit along the longer axis. Which means I carved the inside of the hole wider a bit, even a couple of mms add much by the end of the leg. I have two plans to fix it, but first I wanna paint the whole thing with linseed oil. Which means I have to finish it beforehand.
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IT STANDS! IT STANDS!
Finally, I carved the third hole out and fitted the leg. The one alone is a little longer than the other two, probably all the three will never be the same length but that's ok, I'm planning to use it in the garden where we don't have a square feet flat surface...
It's a little rickety for now, the two legs in the pair moves a bit, but not that much I could flatten the surface of the table with a chisel fine (now if I place a cube on it, it won't roll down). My plan to fix the little movement it has is to install "crossbeams", which will fix the legs in place relative to each other.
First I wanna debark the legs, then carve slots for the crossbeams on them, then make the crossbeams, then oil the whole thing, then put together, and finally drill holes in the legs at the crossbeams to fix it together with pegs.
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Began with the supporting sticks which will give the structural rigidity to make that table steady. Just a hazel sapling bout thumb thick, cut into three pieces. The shortest will be somewhat higher where its length will be sufficient. The lowest bar will connect the thinnest leg with the lone one, that was I tried to find the height for.
The problem will be keeping the chisel in the right angle to carve the slot for the stick. Probably will have to drill through first and follow that hole. However I first I'll have to find the place to carve, so will re-string it so the cord will stretch at the center line of the legs.
I picked a 10 mm thick chisel, a 10 mm wide hole will be enough.
Another point of potential failure is the stick's crookedness. It will serve fine, but it's not that easy to make the flat ends parallel.
 >>/40055/
Somewhere, someone sure. Nothing new under the Sun. Not sure if the shape is advantageous.
Once I built an open birdfeeder, was basically a tray where I dumped seeds and walnuts and such and it had a wider roof.
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Whittling a backscratcher.
It's a piece of hazel about two finger thick on the thicker end, 59-60 cm long. The photos differ much, were taken at different times with different light conditions.
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Essentially it is ready. I might make it thinner, and/or coat it with varnish (so the oils it gathers from the skin, the dust that settles on the surface won't build up and make it dirty, so it can be cleaned and kept clean easier).
pic #6 is the butt end where I hold the scratcher.
The "rake" isn't sharp since I don't plan to flay my back.
 >>/29294/
> Where should I begin to learn carving skills?

Way I hear it these days Washington DC is a good place to start.

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